Dinner at Atelier Robuchon in St Germain. The tasting menu was long and large, delivered with good flair. For our tastes, a little heavy on protein and animal fat, and some uneven execution (e.g. John Dory overcooked and delivered in a “tandoori” based sauce that indicated little sympathy for Indian spices). We asked for wheelbarrows to take us out the door.
Pierre Yves Colin Morey Meursault “Narvaux” 2011
Chiselled and fresh - you almost want to use the scent for a shower gel ad or something. This is pale and youthful and restrained and energetic. Minerality and citrus zest dominate, tightly structured. But there are also good and interesting complexities - fresh baking, mango, coriander - each only in tiny hint form, but together yielding a wine with a little bit of generosity. Very persistent and fine, would love to see this again in a few years. 89+
Lunch at Arpege the next day a stunning meal: at least 14 courses (we lost count) that left us without any sense of heaviness. Inventive and tremendous flavour precision and combinations. You really need a fourth Michelin star for this type of quality! Sadly, not all customers were satisfied on the day: We enjoyed the floor show of another couple complaining about something met with a beautiful passive-aggressive-defensive-patronising response from the maitre(sse?) de. Entertaining for us as we lingered over coffee and cleansers 
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Coche Dury Meursault “Rougeots” 2008
Deep rich colour and a fantastic deep rich nose. Nuts, spices, lemon curd, orange peel, apple, flint. It really is a ridiculous boxful of flavours. All very intense, but packaged effortlessly, with great acidity and no heaviness. Very persistent flavours, clean and leaving me wanting more and more. Still young, but so delicious already. 93+
I suspect the balance in some of the Atelier dishes was more strained than at Arpege, because while the PYCM was a decent match with the food, the acids did call out a few times. Conversely, the Coche matched all dishes wonderfully, perhaps the only small clash with a beetroot tartare. We walked off our guilt with 30km over the two days – at least according to the iPhone 
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