TN : 2011 Grand Cru Steingrubler Gewurztraminer-Barmes Buecher

Bordering on infanticide, but I like to open a bottle of the wines that I lay down in the cellar. In this instance I laid down some 2011 Grand Cru Steingrubler Gwurztraminer from Barmes Buecher, and opened a bottle to see what I had. I have been buying this wine for some time - a number of vintages - so my expectations were quite high.

What a treat ! Nice light golden colour; aromas of honeyed fruit with floral overtones, together with a mineral character, if given time to evolve past the richness of the major aromas; rich and fat on the palate, with some evidence of residual sugar, although not offensive in any way; the wine is actually very full, fat if you like, with a roundness on the palate; the acidity is outstanding, allowing the wine to rest in the mouth without showing any cloying; flavours of spicy passion fruit, with the mineral element shining in the background; extremely long on the finish, with the richness and honey touched fruit carrying through, and the acid provides a solid frame.

With this showing so early, the future prospects for the wine are indeed very bright - immense promise.

Barnes Buecher is easily my choice for top quality Alsatian wines. One or two other producers share some outstanding reviews, but none can compare for quality and value like the Grand Cru’s from this producer.

Hank

Sounds delicious. I don’t drink enough Gewürztraminer.

Hank, have had an eye on B-B for a while!

David, which kind of food do you prefer with Gewurz?

Bob, vintages in Alsace have been favourable for the past 8 years, but, of course, individual wines might vary from the general assessment. I generally limit my Alsatian purchases to the Grand Cru’s produced by Barnes Buecher…including both the Riesling and Gewurztraminer from Hengst. The current offerings of these are for 2010 and are somewhat higher priced than the 2011 Steingrubler Gewurztraminer.

As you are no doubt aware Barmes Buecher opted to adopt the biodynamic approach several years back, and the quality level improved dramatically.

Hank

Indian!

Hank…even if we disagree on the '04 Red Burgs…at least we agree on Barmes-Buecher.

Though I stopped buying wine in 2007 (with the 2005-2006 vintages) my cellar is full of Barmes-Buecher, Boxler and Trimbach, so I have no regrets.

I think Boxler makes the finest rieslings in Alsace from their Somerberg holdings (less so from their Brand). And, I really appreciate Trimbach…and what it sets out to do vintage after vintage: make dry, even austere examples of rieslings from their great sites that age forever.

But, B-B…to me…makes the best all around group of wines…or at least the most interesting and pleasing to drink. (And, the late great Francois Barmes actually adapated the BD approach by 1996…so twenty years ago. Their wines, from all varietals are super, especially , as you point out from their grand crus. I’ve loved the Hengst rieslings and always save them for special occasions…the 1998 is drinking beautifully now. But, it’s the Steingrubler than has always charmed me. (They stared selling riesling from Steingrubler from the 199 vintage, but their holdings were before that all gewurtz.).

I have a love-hate relationship with gewurtz. I hated the dry, spicy, bitter versions in Alsace before global warning and the mid-90s…and I still hate them. Though I have little use at the table for sweetish wines, I have LOVED many vintages of Barmes’ gewurtz Steingrubler…(and Pferisberg., too). In those vintages I’ve loved…there is, to me, a perfect balance between acidity and the sweetness of the vintages…which rides the middle of the road and creats “finesse” in the context of Alsace Gewurtz. I always look forward to one…as I bought only those I’ve loved.

Sadly, I haven’t been back to visit since Francois was, tragically, killed in a hit and run bike accident. I miss the visits…and the visits to the BD treatments and farms…and his incredible enthusiasm for the methods, his vines and wines…and life…

I will get back someday, and hope/hear that his wife, Genevieve and his children are carrying on in his mode.

Stuart, my wife and I talked over dinner the other night about going back to Alsace for a visit next year. We have so many fond memories from prior visits. Sadly we haven’t been back to visit Barmers Buecher since Francois’ tragic accident. Genevieve and their two children are making wonderful wines these days. Weinbach’s wines are quite fine but carry an expensive price tag, at least in this market.

Now where did you get the idea that we differ regarding the 2004 red Burgundies ? The vintage overall was not successful, but I have enjoyed a number of the wines. Perhaps that is where we differ…you haven’t had the same experience, I gather.

Hank

Thanks for posting this note. I fell across Barmés-Beucher about 3 years ago when they entered both the SAQ and the LCBO at the same time and have never looked back. Their Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminers and Rieslings are all awesome.

Frankly, I have never tasted a better, more Burgundian pinot noir than their “old vines” (from the Hengst also, but cannot , according to Alsace AOC regs be called “grand cru” because only certain varieties of grapes can be. (It used to be labeled “H” in the '90s, but…was later “vielles vignes”.

And, their pinot blanc isn’t too bad either, nor is their muscat, but not as good as those Tran listed.

One of my favorite food and wine pairings. I need to have them together more.

I love off-dry Gewürztraminer with cheeses, especially soft and especially stinky. Not goat. Munster is a platonic match of course.
I really like the wines but honestly find there are matches I prefer with main dishes of all types