TN: Two Roses w/ Friends..(short/boring)

WINE TALK
1

We had some friends over for dinner Fri night and these two were the highlights (sorta):

  1. **WindGap PinotGris WindsorOakVnyd/ChalkHill/SonomaCnty (6 brls/144 cs; 12%; #0927; Skin contact thru fermentation
  • 3 months) Sebastapol 2013**: Pale garnet red color; some cranberry rather earthy/dusty some phenolic/resiny slight peppery somewhat interesting nose; quite tart light cranberry rather earthy/dusty some phenolic/resiny/skin-contact/cidery some savory/saline flavor w/ modest/bitey tannins; med.short phenolic/resiny light cranberry/earthy/dusty some savory/saline finish w/ light bitey tannins; seems less phenolic & tannic & austere than before but still bitey tannins and not much to thrill about this wine; disappointing. $36.00
  1. Idlewild GrenacheGris GibsonRanch/MendoCnty (12.9%) 2013: Light red color; lovely Grenache/strawberry/cranberry/watermelon some dusty/OV/earthy quite perfumed/aromatic nose; rather tart very dry bright/strawberry/cranberry/Grenache/spicy some dusty/OV perfumed lovely flavor w/ light tannic bite; rather long bright/Grenache/strawberry/cranberry dry rather tart finish w/ light tannic bite; quite a lovely/perfumed/savory Grenache rose/red. $24.00

A wee BloodyPulpit:

  1. The WindGap was pretty unthrilling, the Idlewild was lovely. The Prunotto Barolo '93 was dreadful, rather bretty, loads of new oak, hard/lean/angular/tannic/oaky; with little prospects of developing into anything interesting or great.
  1. We had the WindGap back in March & I kinda liked it. Some pretty cranberry fruit w/ lots of austere phenolic character w/ ample tannins & I thought had a lot of potential. This time the wine was not nearly as phenolic & austere; but little fruit, little interesting things; just an “Oakland wine”…there’s no there there. I’ve 4 more btls left.
    So I would like to pose this question: How can you tell if a wine has entered a “dumb” phase, or it’s simply not evolved as well as you expected it to and there’s little prospects that it’ll turn into anything good??
  1. Idlewild: I understand that Sam is dropping this GrenacheGris from his tableau. Too bad. GibsonRanch is an iconic vnyd and he’s done a terrific job w/ these grapes.
    Tom
2

Tom,
I would say that the only true way to know if it’s in a dumb phase is to have years of experience with that wine where you have seen it go into and come out of phases (or know someone who does). Otherwise, it’s just guessing.

3

I generally love what Pax does at Wind Gap, but multiple bottles of the Pinot Gris have shown me that his skin contact stuff is not my thing.

4

The Wind Gap Pinot Gris is the least favorite wine they make, a well-made bore. It only shows its best in a narrow temperature range. It does improve considerably in the company of food, where it lets the food shine. A wine without flaws but without much to offer, either.