Haute Couture at Haut Bailly

I have to be honest. I do not go to Vinexpo in Bordeaux for the trade show, which occurs once every two years, but rather for the usually amazing dinners and lunches.

This year was particularly gratifying, with lunches at Pedesclaux and Cheval Blanc and dinners at Margaux, Montrose, Smith Haut Lafitte, Domaine de Chevalier and Haut Bailly.

Yes, I realize that Pedesclaux in Pauillac has been long underperforming, but they are making better wines lately. Gone are the days of Parker’s adage “life is too short to drink Pedesclaux” … I will post about that later on my website. And about the others. I also got a chance to retaste many 2014s and have posted some notes on Cellar Tracker already - and once done, will post here.

For now, here a link to the excellent dinner at Chateau Haut Bailly, which included wines from all over the world and the refined cuisine of master chef Alain Dutournier of Carré des Feuillants.

One of several memorable wines: a magnum of Corton Charlemagne from Bonneau du Martray 2007, which was fresh and mineral like, with an opulent mid palate and a precise aspect leading to a long finish.

Some may have found Pingus 2007 to be the ultimate wine. I was less impressed. For the duckling part of the meal, we had Pingus served with… Le Pin 2008. So very different in style. The Le Pin was far more reticent as compared to the 15.5% whopper from Ribera del Duero.

As it turned out the Haut Bailly 2009 was singing when we got to the cheese, and, tasted along side the Haut Bailly 2000, it became clear to me that the estate has been making more precise wines in recent years. I have always liked the 2000 but the 2009 was superior.

The dinner ended with my “wine of the night”: the Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage 1994. Few cases were made of this superb porto.

Before dinner we had a vertical of Haut Bailly from 2004 to 2014. Most of the wines were very good, the 2013 was disappointing as so many Bordeaux can be. I may underestimate the 2011 and 2012. I think that the 2004 is finally coming around and the 2007 is quite charming indeed. The 2010 needs at least 10 years. The 2005 is in a closed phase. Anyway, all notes with photos and a video can be found here:

http://www.wine-chronicles.com/blog/haut-bailly-2015-vinexpo/

Cheers!

Panos

Hasn’t Pedesclaux been back in favor at least since 2005?

Even better since then … I’ll post about that later Craig.

Really?

Yes. the 2012 has more structure than the 2009 for example. We had both for lunch… Anyway, this post is mainly about Haut Bailly. Will certainly write up the Pedesclaux lunch.

Thanks for the post and the link, Panos. I admit that Haut Bailly was not on my radar screen for many years, but I have recently enjoyed a number of the their wines enormously. Unfortunately, I was with, rather than ahead of, this particular wave, so prices and my appreciation rose more or less in concert. I have a few bottles but not very many. In many ways, the market profile of this estate reminds me of Pontet Canet: very fine terroir, middling-to-good wines for a long time, followed by skyrocketing quality and price.

Thank you for the write up. I particularly like "1994 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional – I am tempted to give this 100. " I have not had the 1994 but I rated the 1996 - an inferior vintage in theory - the same 97 points you ultimately gave to the 1994, so I suspect that I would also be tempted to give it 99.99. Interestingly (for me anyway), I have never had Haut Bailly, but after your write up, I think I will give it a try. As to Pedesclaux, I’ll have to wait for your write up, but could they change the name? It sounds like a trade name for some kind of bicycle pedal contraption.

Panos,

Great notes as always. I opened a bottle of '10 Haut Bailly a few months ago and it is very powerful as you noted - dare I say too powerful. This is not one of those '10’s that you can really enjoy young.

Thanks, Panos.

I have tasted a few samples of Pedesclaux since Emmanuel Cruse (Chateau d’Issan) took over, and I also see the marked improvement.

Haut Bailly has been on a serious roll lately; all the investment since 2000 has really paid off and I am finding that the wines are without doubt my favorite in the Graves outside of Haut Brion and LMHB. I remember tasting the 2008 at the Burdigala and really liking it (95 points) and also had a 1971, and was shocked by how well it showed.

Love this estate as well. Curious, what vintages have you been buying. I’m in the fence with 2010. Did buy 12 and 14 more recently. Some older bottles I had at Bern’s, including a 47, were spectacular.

I own 2000, 2004, 2006, 2010 and 2012 – just a few bottles of each. I have one bottle of 2005, which I just happened upon, on sale, while walking through a local shop

For the first time ever I saw a Pedesclaux in my usual store, so bought a 2010. Hopefully it will be as good as the rumors suggest.

I suppose just the fact it made on to a retailers shelves here must mean something. The better stores are reasonable filters themselves.

Hi Robert and Neal. I can see where you come from on the 2010, as does Jon in his post above. During en primeur, I tried the 09 and 10 together, back in early April, and Gabriel Vialard, winemaking director, stressed how much more he likes the 2010 as more classical. There is however much power, but I think it will settle down and become very impressive over time. Today, I prefer the 2009. Both are expensive. I think that 2012 is a better QPR purchase, and 2014 even better, in terms of QPR.

Hi Jay! Yes, the whole 100 point thing for me must include a bit of wine nirvana. One of the rare times I gave a wine 100 points was drinking a 1959 Latour in Washington D.C. back in January this year with great wino friends . You really should try Haut Bailly. I think a vintage like 2001 and now 2004 could still be good QPRs for wines with a bit of age. If you have the money to spare, you really cannot go wrong with 2009. 2005 and 2010 are more structured and just as pricey. 2012 and especially 2014 are rather good deals.