TNs: A Few Bottles in Toronto on a Wednesday (Dunn, Ridge, Poggio Antico, Meyney)

http://thewinenerds.ca/bottles-toronto-wednesday/

Friend of The Wine Nerds, Jay, hosted a motley crew of guys to his place on a Wednesday in Toronto and I was there enjoying the company and reporting on the assortment of wines.

Jay cooked up Squid Ink Carbonara with toasted hazelnuts and red pepperoncini. It was a sort of fusion dish almost like Italian pasta meets pad thai.




  • 2010 Stratus White - Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA
    (tasted double blind). This pours a fairly dark shade of golden yellow. The nose to me speaks of Semillon with abundant wax, slate, straw, honey, lemon, herbs and lanolin. Certainly some slightly more advanced aromatics which had me thinking this was a few years older than it’s actual age. Definitely some oak on this wine with mildly oxidative winemaking lending the richness. The palate is dry with a touch more viscosity than expected and a medium minus length finish carried on wax, herbs and honey. This an old-world styled wine with the emphasis on non-fruit complexity. Well made. My best guess was aged Semillion from Australia or possibly white bordeaux and that is essentially what this is styled after. A blend which involves prominent Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay with other white varieites in support. I thought this was quality wine. (90 pts.)
  • 2010 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
    This was an interesting wine to watch evolve. It’s certainly young, only showing glimpses of it’s full potential. The nose reveals lemon custard, mineral, green plant stem, roasted red pepper, lemon zest and hints of brown spice. The palate is much more linear than the nose would suggest with blazing acid and a medium lemon juice and mineral tinged finish. Not scored today as I found it tough to assess but it is well built and there’s no reason to believe this won’t develop nicely in the coming years.
  • 2001 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    Slow-oxed for 6 hours prior to consumption. Pours quite dark with very light bricking. This wine is in such a fantastic spot right now, totally in the zone for my tastes. While clean and free from VA and Brett it is still so traditional with evident use of Slavonian Oak. The nose shows wonderfully savoury notes of balsamic drizzled strawberries, red and dark cherry, old polished wood, undergrowth, dusty soil, rosemary, hints of cured meat and pipe tobacco. The palate is still fairly structured with abundant acid and tannin suggesting there isn’t a hurry to drink. The sweet dark cherry textured fruit on the palate is wonderful with a cherry pit finish that lingers nicely. Toward the end of the evening this showed savoury tomato paste notes on the palate that were thoroughly enjoyable. Everything I want in Tuscan Sangiovese. (92 pts.)
  • 1992 Dunn Vineyards Petite Sirah Howell Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
    When initially popped this wine was all brett and deep, primary fruit that was really closed in and tight. A couple of people thought it might be mildly corked, but I was never convinced. This is consistent with what I’ve had in early 90’s Dunn. After a couple of hours in the decanter I thought it came together nicely with notes of farmyard, hay, blackberry, black currant, dry soil and espresso. The palate repeated the deep rich fruit and hay/farmyard on the medium-minus length finish. Good, but certainly not great. (90 pts.)
  • 2000 Ridge Petite Sirah York Creek - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
    Killer showing from this humble wine. It pours deep and opaque with no bricking. From the first pour this was deep, polished and rich with notes of cassis, blackberry, aged sweet balsamic, tar, brown sugar, and hints of caramel. For whatever reason this reminded me of the polish of a Sandrone Barolo or a Tuscan Merlot. The palate is lush with abundant tannin and a medium finish carried on dark fruit. The big caveat here was that after a couple of hours of air this became extremely caramelized and butterscoth driven. A big detractor for most at the table. (91 pts.)
  • 2005 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Really tough showing here from Beaucastel. The nose is all port, prunes, figs, dried strawberries and dates. The palate is overripe and lacking any kind of refinement or balance. I’ll withhold judgement until I taste a bottle from another source, however this is concerning as this bottle was bought on release from the LCBO and stored properly. NR (flawed)
  • 1989 Château Meyney - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    I’ve had this wine so many times, but this is up there with some of the best showings I’ve had. Certainly this wine is slowly starting to fade and there is no need to age any longer. The nose is of leather, old cedar, mushroom, undergrowth, red currants, tart black raspberry and dark cherry. The palate has very little remaining tannin, but excellent acid and a medium length cedar and leather tinged finish. A pleasure to drink this one today. (91 pts.)

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the notes! FWIW, my 2005 Beaucastel (bought in the US) showed nothing like yours when I had one a few months back. It showed young, fresh and powerful - but still enjoyable with a hearty meal. Hope the bottles that made it to Ontario were not spoiled somewhere along the way!

Cheers,
Blair

Had an '05 from Ontario on Friday (along with '81,89,93,95,98,04,& 09) and it was fine. No issues at all. As you say Blair, young fresh & powerful, although did nothing to separate itself from the other young ones. A bit too clean as well.

The '89 was spectacular.

Yes, I love this wine as long as the cork is good…lots of dodgy corks with 1989 Beaucastel.

I also know what you mean about too clean…I like a little ass in my glass deadhorse . Lol.

Cheers,
Blair

I have just had a tough run of CdP all sourced on release from the LCBO: '98, '00, '01 and '05. With many showing much more port-like than I expect they would. As an example I’ve had a couple of bottles of '01 Beaucastel sourced from the LCBO in the last year that were generally overripe, then recently one that was sourced from WineBid that was much better and very nice. I have suspicions that there could have been mistreatment of some LCBO shipments during this period, but no hard proof or even enough data points to say so with confidence.

Chris, I’m just wondering, were they all bought on release or were they part of a later release offering?

Other than the '81 which was bought in the U.S. years ago, all bought on release.