OK, so I’ve been part of the “‘95s are so cranky- are they ever going to come out of their shell” crowd for a while. So when we were planning a 1995s at 20 dinner I had a little trepidation. Then recently a pretty nice Calon Segur made me feel more hopeful. Our group met in the nice downstairs room at Le Philosophe on Bond St (Noho I guess?). With some gougeres we enjoyed the NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose Champagne. Full, zesty, with cherry and citrus, very enjoyable. B+
Then on to the 1995 reds (I’ve tried to note any prep, from memory):
1995 Ch. Haut Bailly (double-decanted that afternoon)
Nice way to start. Cassis fruit tinged with mint and earth, nice fruit, balanced acids,
B+
I had frogs legs (needed a zippier presentation, I regretted not ordering the trotter with flageolets)
St. Emilion Flight
1995 Ch. Magdelaine (double-decanted that afternoon)
Lean and elegant, classic Magdelaine, tobacco and herbs over redder fruit. I think this, Barton, and Cos were ones with biggest diverging opinions. A-
1995 Ch. Angelus (double-decanted that afternoon)
I really found this mute and tight at first, really restrained though not really tough. But with air it got a cocoa/mocha thing going and lusher fruit, I quite liked at end. I put B- down originally, changed to B+
St Julien Flight
1995 Ch. Leoville Barton (double-decanted that morning) B
This was to me one of the tightest wines of the night, initially with a metallic note to it, though that faded and I liked better at end. B
1995 Ch. Leoville las Cases (PnP)
Young but quite nice, cocoa powder and black fruits. B+/A-
1995 Ch. Leoville Poyferre (PnP)
I thought this the most open of the flight. Ripe cassis, some tobacco, tannins in background. B+/A-
I had a nice flatiron steak with Bordelaise sauce.
First Pauillac Flight
1995 Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste (double-decanted that afternoon)
Sweet and open, plenty of fruit, distinct cigarbox notes, drinking well with long future. A-/B+
1995 Ch. Lynch Bages (PnP)B/B-
Tight and a touch tough, fruit is restrained, maybe just hiding but not giving a lot. B-/B
1995 Ch. Pichon Baron (double-decanted that afternoon)
Blackcurrant, graphite, tangy. A-/B+
We got a cheese course so we wouldn’t taste these without. A French goat cheese I didn’t know, Leonora from Spain, and Tumbleweed from Pennsylvania (initial waiter when asked said it was from France- “it is a mixture of Gouda and Chantal, and those are both French cheeses”- our main waiter said it was a cheddar/chantal cross)
Pauillacs and one St Estephe
1995 Ch. Cos d’Estournel (PnP)
I don’t know what to say about this wine- some liked, but I thought thin fruit, tough, a weird green olive meets funk, and somewhat clipped. The only wine that if I served at dinner for my wife I would have drawn a replacement. C+
1995 Ch. Mouton Rothschild (double-decanted that morning)
Lovely, full and exotic, Mushrooms and spice over good cassis fruit. I’m not historically a big Mouton fan but this is really good. A-
1995 Ch. Pichon Lalande (PnP, seepage/soaked cork under capsule)
I think I ran out of steam or just talked to much by this point, didn’t write anything but grade. But this didn’t show to me as damaged, quite good, just tight. B+/B
There were assorted dessert, and also a 375 ml of 2005 Ch. Caillou that waiter very generously brought out. I dislike tiny dessert glasses, didn’t allow much on nose, this could use a bit more acid but nice flavors.
We did our usual voting- every gets 6 pts to award (no more than 3 per wine). Either someone forgot a 3rd place vote or I missed one point.
Mouton 13 pts
GPL 9
LLC 7
Haut-Bailly 7
Magdelaine 6
Pichon Baron 2
Leo Barton 2
Poyferre 1
Fun night. Pretty much everything showed as well or better than I expected except the Cos and Lynch. Much more accessible and less grumpy than my expectations.
Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.