Brief impressions of the week’s wines:
Occhipinti, SP86 Bianco, Sicily, 2013
A Dressner white for the jaded palate. Blend of abanello and zibibo grapes. Brassy color hints at oxidative notes. Very floral, aromatic nose. Redolent with honeysuckle. Almost Condrieu like. Very round mouthfeel. But lively acidity and herbal notes on finish – coriander and oregano – keep it from being blowsy. Might want a bit more grip at the end but a refreshing wine that pushes different buttons. Liked it, didn’t love it. Kept thinking this would be great in summer with some grilled whole fish stuffed with rosemary … 12%ABV
Chateau du Tours (Rayas), Cotes du Rhone Reserve, 2010
Very open nose – lavendar, garrigue. Grenache at the fore – rhubarb, raspberry, earth. More treble than bass. Nothing heavy or jammy. Rayas structure, balance and spice. Touch of heat at end. Fruit still dominant, so it seems like it could use 3-5 years to gain some complexity. Still very enjoyable wine now. Bit pricy for baby CDP at $30, but pedigree shows.
Littorai, Pinot Noir, Cerise Vineyard, Anderson Valley, 2004
Again a very expressive nose – baking spices, dark cherry. Nearly opaque with no browning. Looks like an extracted wine but surprisingly lithe. Cherry, whiff of smoke, bit of tea. Fully resolved wine after 10 years, with smooth tannins and acid showcasing quality, still lively fruit. Bit of bottle sweetness that you will either love or dislike. More of a polished wine than an elegant one, with silky mouthfeel. Very strong out of the gate but didn’t really change that much over 3 hours. If Littorai is your style, this is a fantastic wine right now.