Magnifishent Fishtravaganza

Yesterday evening I flew into Vigo, the largest city in Galicia. I had appointments to taste and blend today. I did not know that Vigo allegedly has the world’s largest fish market (eat your heart out, Tokyo) or that it is an industrial center (no question as you drive in from the airport.

One of my suppliers said that her boyfriend was going to be in Vigo that evening and would I like to have dinner with him. He’s a local and recommended ‘El Capitan’ in the old town. My hotel was nearby. I accepted if it would be early (by Spanish standards) and not too heavy or late. No problem.

My flight landed at 8, they would serve at 9, but what with flights, luggage, hotel and the beautiful ½ mile walk through the old town, it was 9:45 when we were seated.

A titanic 7 course fish dinner followed (9 if you count the three iterations of one course). I staggered into my room at midnight. No regrets, as they say. Also virtually nothing but fish. A great salad had vegetables and random potatos appeared, but this was implacable seafood.

Small peel and pop shrimp were placed in front of us as we sat. Lightly salted, they were instant briny explosions consumed as quickly as possible.

The langoustine salad that followed was a superstar. The lobster-like meat is tougher, less sweet, less briny but still superb. The red and green peppers, onions, olives, olive oil and vinegar were a perfect match. This was savored to the end, the dressing sopped up with bread at the end until the plate looked like the dog had licked it clean.

I was told empanadas were next. I love 'em, but they were nothing I recognized. Tiny open-side squares of puff pastry each enclosed three different seafoods, each seasoned so subtly that I have no idea what the seasonings were, each very good. Zamburinas are what I would call bay scallops. What they call sardines are not what I would call sardines, they are much better. And squid with ink were outstanding.

Next came octopus, meltingly tender, as good as I’ve had, perhaps not seasoned at all (except for salt), accomanied by a big roasted potato. OK, no, better than OK, just great. Another candidate with the salad for plate of the evening.

I was stuffed. Dionisio (my supplier’s boy friend) promised me that the clams would be the last course. He may have believed it. They were big, tasty, and came with a white-gray sauce that I could not identify that added nothing but at least did not detract from the beautiful flavors and texture of the clams. After we consumed ¾ of them, they were whisked away, I had 15 seconds to enjoy what had been accomplished, when TWO different platters of fish were placed in front of us.

Snapper was plain and excellent, but nothing I had not had before.

Grouper was sensational, rich and briny of course, but also somehow earthy, like monkfish that had lived in a monastery before going back to sea. The texture was incredible, dense yet ethereal.

Dionisio knew that if he ordered dessert I would have to kill him. It probably would have been trout sorbet. We staggered out and back to my hotel, where he apparently recovered his car and navigated home (I blended wine with his girl friend this morning and she might have mentioned it if there had been any mishaps).

Dionisio says that food in Vigo is about the best ingredients, treated with respect, not about cuisine. If El Capitan is a good example, he is right as rain.

Wines: We drank wine with dinner.
Dionisio owns vineyards and sells the stuff. We had three wines, one of which I might some day import, so no note. I can’t possibly give any scores.

2013 Rubio Infante Albarino Rias Baixas - This is a beauty, classic, fresh, tender (surprisingly so for 15 months). If you see it, don’t hesitate.

2010 Marquesado de Alto Rioja Tempranillo - This is a smooth, sophisticated yet terroir-driven bottling featuring intense red cherry fruit, with an excellent balance between acid and amplitude.

Dan Kravitz

TL:DR, but I hate the title because I had to stop and pronounce it to myself several times. [truce.gif]

The cuisine everywhere in Northern Spain is absolutely superb - best I’ve ever had. I was an exchange student in Cantabria, and I can still remember meals that blended astonishingly fresh shellfish with magnificent roast meat - lamb that would make your mind spin.

Dusty,

Don’t read it. You’ll just get hungry [snort.gif]

Dan Kravitz

i need photos!! sounds so good.

Thanks for the post Dan - I am in the seafood business and the best seafood I have had is in Vigo and Lisbon - wonderful traditions of simple stunning preps.

yes please! sounds great! (although this might be an epicurean exploit)