Sadly, I’m a bit disappointed by this bottle. It’s good, very good, but not better. Lots of recent glowing notes on CT about this wine, so perhaps my expectations were too high. I’m generally a huge fan of Raffault, and in fact the '89 is one of my epiphany bottles that got me into Chinon, and just grabbed some 1990s yesterday as this bottle was decanting (half of it). Drinking the other half now.
The wine is either in a dumb phase, closed, a slight off-bottle (have to admit lots of variation in Raffaults) or just a year that does not wow me like others. The nose is reticent, even after lots of coaxing, and even now on second day. Archetype Chinon, with notes of crispy red fruits, tobacco, bell pepper, herbaceous. Tight, tart, firm, a bit austere. Savory, but tight. The 2007 I had a few weeks ago was much more open for business, the 2009 more interesting but still way too young.
As I write this note, I just convinced myself to put it back in the fridge and see what happens on the third day. Already opened a young Amirault.
Today is day two, sorry if my stream of consciousness ramblings weren’t clear. In my defense, went out for Italian food with my wife and have had a few already!
Too bad - I’m curious to hear if it does anything with more air. I liked this when I drank it about two years ago, and it wasn’t lacking in aroma. I just picked up a bottle of '06 today, looking forward to trying it. Low $20s for the '06 right now, so could be a good value.
I’ve always found this wine to be a bit reticent and structured. I like where it is right now, although I agree it is not initially the most open or expressive nose after an hour or two it’s attractive aromatically, and the structure should keep it going for another decade and probably longer.
I’ve been under the assumption that the '02 of this wine won’t ever reach the heights of the better vintages as '02 was pretty dreadful in all of France except Burgundy and Champagne.
Reds might not have been quite as much of a standout as whites but it was still a top notch vintage and, again, best since 1997 IMO. Though I bought and drank far more whites than reds so my experience isn’t as wide.
re the 2002 ‘Les Picasses’ specifically - I loved the first two bottles I had but was disappointed by my last two. I suspect it’s shut down.
Jancis Robinson’s take:
“A successful if somewhat cool year, characterised by classic balance and structure for all varieties. The opposite in style to the opulent 2003.”
Wine Spectator rated it 91:
“Heat during flowering led to a small crop, while ideal September weather produced a superb vintage, with pure, balanced whites and reds”
Loire Valley Wines gives the vintage three stars for the reds on what seems to be a five-star scale, which puts it on par with 1997.
Robert, thanks for starting this; your post inspired me to open a bottle of 07 tonight. I had the 02 in November and was probably more disappointed than you - it started really well, with great fruit, but was progressively taken over by a rather bitter green overtone that completely ruined it. I think I probably just had a bad one though.
I bought six different vintages to try, direct from the producer - just single bottles, at an average price of around 11 euros, I think, which in itself is fairly extraordinary (availability of older vintages, great price, by the bottle - who does that anymore…by correspondence…??).
I liked the 06 but of the three I’ve tried the 07 is the best. Yeasty nose with quite a lot of oak (but a smattering compared to Right Bank or Magrez monsters) and a hint of brett, dominating the sweet strawberry and blackberry aromas. Deceptively light at first, with beguiling cassis and herbs, but with a stronger, quite meaty middle section, just a hint of bell pepper, before a long, quite firm finish, which suggests it will improve over the next decade. Very good but not great, though, just lacking a little intensity. 90 pts
I opened an '02 last night and Robert’s notes are dead on.
It’s either really closed down, or not going to be a great picasses.
It didn’t strike me as tight and in need of a lot of time.
But what the hell do I know?
Drank a 2006 last night and tonight, and liked it:
2006 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (1/31/2015)
Decanted half the bottle and began drinking immediately. Smells like tobacco, ripe cherry, and spice; attractive, with a streak of freshness as well as a bit of general agedness. On the palate, tannins are overly prominent, but some air and palate acclimation help; best with 90+ minutes. Cherry, earth, spice, twig, and tobacco flavors. Fairly long spicy-twiggy finish. Good acidity, flirting with sour. Light, almost watery texture. Characterful and enjoyable wine, and a good value.
Day 2: remainder kept in a half bottle is drinking very well, improved from day 1. More pungent, herbaceous and floral, the tannins are integrated and in balance, and the fruit and freshness have not diminished. Went well with a mustardy roast beef sandwich.
Visited Rebelle NYC tonight and had a bottle of this; my first Loire cab franc. I don’t have a benchmark for this wine, but have to say if this was an “off” vintage, I can’t wait to try a “good” one. Well integrated though a bit muted on opening, but 2 hrs into dinner it was wide open with nice black fruit, rich texture, and real zip. If Flatiron was open tomorrow, I’d run down for a few bottles to through in my suitcase.
I waved “hi” to Alice Fiering who was hanging out at the bar. I don’t think she noticed.