PENFOLDS TASTING WITH 5 VINTAGES OF GRANGE AND A BUNCH MORE - Downtown Cleveland (11/21/2014)
Last night a group of us braved the snow and cold (luckily we were not in Buffalo) to meet at one of our favorite places in downtown Cleveland for a many course meal highlighted by a selection of Penfold’s wines. Most of the wines came either from my cellar or Gary H’s and bought on release, but a few were bought for the occasion. It was a great opportunity to taste thru a lot of their lineup. Originally, this was to be an all grange tasting, but I liked this better as we progressed thru the wines as it gave a geeky impression of their wine. The food was amazing and the wines showed well. Lots of very hard belly laughs too.
A Saprkling starter (not Grange, but still from Australia):
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2010 Taltarni Brut Taché - Australia
Copper in color. The nose has some strawberries and a bit of rhubarb. The palate has rhubarb with slight toast. A bit tart. Some apple cider notes. Nice mousse but it faded in the glass. Certainly a nice Aussie sparkling wine and a nice way to start the night. For an under $20 sparkler it is nice. (87 pts.)
A few whites to get going:
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2008 Penfolds Riesling Thomas Hyland - Australia, South Australia, Adelaide
Not a bad showing for a 6 year old $10 Riesling. Golden in color. The nose has petrol and lemons. Tart on the palate. Mostly dry, not quite completely. This is alive and drinking just fine although certainly showing some development/age. It may have been fresher in the day, but it is screw capped and a nice value. (87 pts.) -
2009 Penfolds Riesling Bin 51 - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
This was nice but at over twice the cost of the Hyland, there is not a whole lot of difference. A bit of petrol on the nose. Creamy lemons too. The palate is again, almost dry. It is fresher on the palate. Lemons with some minerality. Neither of these are expensive and both screw capped and are drinking mature but just fine. (88 pts.) -
2008 Penfolds Chardonnay Yattarna - Australia, South Australia
A very nice Chard holding up just fine. The nose is creamy lemon chiffon. Some minerals as well. Very distinct on the palate. It would be hard to place blind IMO. Lemon cream flavors. Some oak. Reasonably crisp. Nice finish. At 6 years, it is not youthful but not showing old either. IMO a bit pricey, but such is life. Certainly an outstanding wine. (91 pts.)
The St. Henri flight (plus a 389):
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2004 Penfolds Bin 389 - Australia, South Australia
This was a last minute addition, so it saw about two hours of air prior to serving. The nose is dusty with black raspberries, blueberries and smoked meat. Nice. Both the nose and the palate are drinking well. Perhaps at peak but just barely. At ten years, this is ageing slowly. It is a blend of Cab and Shiraz. Nice juicy black raspberries, with layers of complexity. IIRC, this was about $30 on release and a great value. I think the price on new releases is at least double. I was surprised how young this drank. (90 pts.) -
1998 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri - Australia, South Australia
Purchased by me on release. I was wondering if this would be over the hill, but again, this is just getting into its wheelhouse and drinking great. Seemed to be the groups favorite of the flight. black cherries, black raspberries, some grilled meats on the nose. On the palate, layered complexity. Vibrant black raspberry fruit. Some spice. Mostly resolved tannins. Seems to be at peak at his point 16 years from vintage but no hurry. This was $30 on release, but current vintages are up at $100 a bottle. Might be worth it. (93 pts.) -
2006 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri - Australia, South Australia
Not quite the wine the 98 is, but give it time apparently. The nose has black raspberries and some black pepper. softer texture and a bit thinner than the 98. A bit of coffee on the finish. Firm tannins. Slight heat as well. Drinks like a middle of the road, quality Aussie Shiraz at the moment. (92 pts.)
The RWT flight:
This was the tightest flight in terms of the wines not showing differently. Of course, it was a tight grouping of vintages and all the same wine. Still, there were differences.
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2004 Penfolds Shiraz RWT - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
Black raspberries, a bit of eucalyptus and some grilled meats on the nose. Black raspberries on the palate. This is very nice, not a monster wine, but drinking well if youthful. It is accessible though, the most in the flight. (93 pts.) -
2006 Penfolds Shiraz RWT - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
At first I found this to be the weakest wine in the flight (04 thru 07), but this picked up with air. It is jammy black raspberries on the nose. Tons of tannins. Velvety texture. This is a lush wine that needs some time. Not a monster but more about opulence than elegance. (94 pts.) -
2007 Penfolds Shiraz RWT - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
Very young. Not showing a lot. The nose has spice, black raspberries, cedar and black pepper. Tannins and more tannins on the palate. Lots of fruit too. Black raspberries and kirsch. This is intense. While it drinks well now, its best days are well ahead IMO. (93 pts.) -
2005 Penfolds Shiraz RWT - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
My favorite in the flight although the group seemed split between the wines. This is very tight but with air the nose shows, black raspberries, cedar and some coffee. Also some black pepper. Really concentrated. Intense. Needs time. (95 pts.)
The first Grange flight:
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1982 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia
Wow. What a beautiful wine. I opened it at 8am and it smelled good. At noon, it had a raisinette note which had me worrying. By 9 p.m. when we got to it, it was great. Purple in color showing little signs of age, perhaps a bit less intense than the 98 in color. The nose is great and deep with black raspberries, blueberries, smoke, spice and even some bacon fat. The palate is accessible. Complex and layered. Softer while not soft. A beguiling wine. Hard to think it is 32 years old. No sign of being past peak, but I have to assume it won’t get better from here, but should hold for a while. Tannins are integrated. Gorgeous wine. (97 pts.) -
1998 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia
Opened at 7 am, so it had about 14 hours to slow-ox. This is still a monster wine showing very young. I would hold off for another decade at least on opening another bottle. The nose has black raspberries, leather, bacon fat, black olives and cedar. Gorgeous texture. complex but it is huge and deep and tightly layered. it unwinds in the glass to show a beautiful wine. Concentrated, complex and delicious. Its best days are ahead though. (96 pts.) -
2000 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia
Perhaps the weakest vintage in the tasting, this still rocked. Black raspberries, grilled meats, black pepper, cedar and slight menthol on the nose. The most classis “Shiraz” of the Granges. Firm tannins but showing a depth of layers as it unwinds in the glass. Great concentration. Lots of fruit. Delicious. (94 pts.)
The second Grange flight (plus an Astralis):
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2001 Clarendon Hills Astralis - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, Clarendon
This was thrown in as an extra bottle. There were some complaints that this might be an off or flawed bottle. Perhaps. It is a huge wine and there might be some VA which doesn’t help. In general, I have not been as much a fan of Clarendon Hills as some. The nose has black raspberries, alcohol, black pepper and a liqueur quality. On the palate, this is huge and a bit mono-dimensional next to the Grange. Still, there is a lot to like here. Tons of fruit and depth. Warming on the finish. (92 pts.) -
2001 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia
This is huge but next to the Astralis is seems reasonable. Inky purple in color. The nose has black raspberries, black pepper, cedar and charred/gamey meats. Maybe some black olives too. Intense and concentrated. Drinking delicious now, but more about power and intensity. Tons fruit. Long finish. Needs a lot of time, but this exceeded my expectations as it is close to the 98. (96 pts.) -
2005 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia
If Grange was affordable, this would be an example of why to drink some young. Yes, it is immense and intense, but there is lot of pleasure here too. Black raspberries, cassis, spice, black pepper, grilled meats and licorice on the nose. Huge to drink but a lovely texture makes it go down very well. Lots of tannins of course. Long finish. Plenty of room to improve here, this needs a decade or more. A real treat to try tonight though. Thanks Berto. (95 pts.)
Dessert:
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NV Penfolds Grandfather Rare Tawny - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
Berto mentioned this drinks a lot of Aussie stickies. I thought it had a bit more elegance than many of them. This was a bit pricier too, so not a lot of value depending where you buy it (its $90 in Ohio). Great packaging. The wine is an iced tea color. The nose has brown sugar, toffee and crème brulee. Gorgeous nose. Not quite as complex on the palate. It drinks smooth and easy though. Nice balance. Slightly nutty. Smooth with little heat. Long finish. Slightly sweet but not overtly. A great end to a great dinner. (91 pts.)
One more for the (very snowy) road:
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2012 Sami-Odi Syrah Baby Tui - Australia, South Australia, Barossa
George’s wine cam to give him a ride home bearing this. I was excited to try this. Never had it, but I remember Manfred Krankl touting it. It is quite good. It doesn’t drink like what I think of typically being Australian. Purple in color. The nose has black raspberries, black pepper, grilled/smoked meats. Lush texture but has that light on its feet quality despite the size I find more in Paso or Santa Barbara Syrahs. Great texture. Long finish. Needs a few years, but should make it. No idea on pricing though. (93 pts.)
What a great night. We had just a great time! The wines delivered. The food over delivered. This morning was rough.
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