TN: Tasting Closels with Evelyne de Pontbriand

TASTING CLOSELS WITH EVELYNE DE PONTBRIAND - Le Caveau, Chamblee, GA (10/21/2014)

Evelyne de Pontbriand, the vigneron from Domaine du Closel, was in town last night pouring some of her recent releases at Le Caveau, and I brought along a few older wines to share with her and as examples of how the estates’s wines age. The wines were enjoyable, but visiting with Mme de Pontbriand was even more so, as I was struck by her enthusiasm, humility, and engaging personality. I didn’t take detailed notes, as the far-ranging and fascinating conversations with Evelyne and some of the others present seemed much more important to me.


Current Releases
We started with three current releases, all of which were enjoyable in different ways.

• 2011 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
  Surprisingly rich mouthfeel, with lots of honey, some lanolin, a little dust, and decent acidity. Not overly complex, but a good Savennieres from a challenging year.
• 2010 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
  Delightful, complex and well balanced, I was impressed with how white fruit and mineraility added a nimble quality that complemented the honeyed richness that can make young Savennieres from ripe years a little ponderous.
• 2012 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières La Jalousie - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
  Bright fruit and minerals and well-integrated acidity make it easy and fun to drink. An interesting contrast to the Papillons, which showed much more honey and lanolin.

Older Vintages
I provided all of the older wines. The 1996 has been in temperature controlled storage since release, the other two have been at my house, which I keep on the cool side but that is far from optimal storage. That may account for the poor showing of the 2002, but makes the fine performance of the 1992 even more impressive.

• 1992 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières Cuvée Spéciale - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
  It initially showed a lot of oxidation, which is not surprising since it spent more than 15 years in my short-term drinking rack. Some maderized character led me to conclude at first that it was shot. But a hint of clean fruit encouraged me to give it some time and ultimately to decant it.
  In the decanter, it looked like a good sorghum syrup, dark gold, but still translucent. As it warmed up and aired out, the maderization faded, leaving honey and lanolin and a decent core of fruit that was more prominent on the palate than on the nose.

It turned out to be a very pleasant surprise, but the greatest pleasure came from the privilege of sharing it with Evelyne de Pontbriand, whose mother made the wine and who was a pure joy to meet.

• 1996 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières Cuvée Spéciale Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
  I was concerned about the level of oxidation when it was first opened, but as the night wore on, it became cleaner, and seemed to lighten in color, as much brighter fruit, minerals, salinity and fresh spring water, joined the honey and lanolin. By the end of the evening, it was singing, and the last glass was the best.
• 2002 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
  Oxidized and funky, and while time and air raised it to drinkable, this bottle never really turned around like the older ones did.

Thanks for the notes Mike. Although the conversations I’ve had with her have been brief at tasting events, I definitely like her. Her fluent English and easy going style make her very easy to talk with.

I wish I could claim to love the wines…but it’s a style thing. I tend to prefer the brightness of the Jalousie and have purchased a couple of vintages. Family (multi generation) operation? How long has she been making the wines?

RT

Closel is a family operation, with Evelyne taking over from her mother around 2001, who inherited the domaine from her aunt in 1962. Before taking over the domaine, Evelyne taught art and also taught French to non-French speakers. She also succeeded her mother as the president of the Savennieres AOC, and remains in that position.

We talked some about AOC politics and some of the issues that the AOC system is facing, as more producers choose to forego AOC certification as a result of some of the shackles (my word, not hers) that some AOCs are imposing and issues with tasting panels. She is aware of those issues, but was understandably very diplomatic in her responses. I found her positive attitude, enthusiasm, and thoughtfulness contagious, and look forward to meeting her again.

Last night I was gifted the 2013 La Jalousie for assisting at a wine tasting downtown! It was Devine Wines 10th anniversary do and I will post notes later on one of the best tastings I have ever attended.

Thanks. Good notes on a wonderful lady.

I met her when we visited and toured her winery back in 2010 and she was just as you described.

The 2 bottles of 2002 Papillon that I bought and stored for a year, were also clearly oxidized in appearance and taste.

Been sipping the 2015 La Jalousie over the last few nights. It’s a beauty. Bright white fruit with traces of apricot, minerals, mild spice (ginger). There’s a faint suggestion of phantom Chenin sweetness that’s more apparition than real. Remarkably harmonious. It builds on the palate with a full mouthfeel that somehow maintains deceptive litheness. Enjoyable length. Sneaky how delicious this is. The best version I can remember tasting.

RT