TN: Rhys Tasting With The Gang

Below are a couple photos from last night and my notes. Some lessons learned:

–this was a lot of wine. It takes a helluva palate to be able to stay with nuance doing this many wines and I couldn’t keep us as much as I would like.
–I now prefer the Horseshoe chard over the Alpine. Last night brought that home for me, and based on the Rhys style with the wood treatment, the 'Shoe remains far ahead and the Alpine, at least in the context of the fruit and wood program, doesn’t work for me. 'Shoe rules.
–Swan Terrace is a helluva plot and it deserves the credit is earns.
–I still think Home is a killer plot, and given its proximity so close to Family Farm, it truly shows how much better the soil and land is to these 2 wines. Home rules.
–The 2007 vintage is a bit ripe for me. I like the 2010 vintage a lot.

RHYS TASTING WITH THE GANG - My House (10/11/2014)

14 of us around my table, bringing together their passion to understand the Rhys wines and share the strength of our collective cellars. A thank you also out to Kevin @ Rhys for providing the 2012s. Great evening, I learned a lot more about the vintages and the sites.
Mix of cheeses, fruits, breads from Whole Foods

Mixed green organic salad of kale, spinach, mint and arugula with a lemon juice, mandarin orange olive oil dressing

  • 2010 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Opened and poured in prep for the Rhys dinner here at the house tonight. Perfect chill, right stem. There is a distinct pineapple note here, along with a light coconut. The lime skin note adds the zip of acidity and I can sense this is going to be pretty fruit focused and sexy in tone style. Will retaste later in about 3 hours…this seemed to show the oak more over dinner, with the coconut and vanilla barrel tones, which also adds a creaminess. Good acidity, just a fatter feel. We tasted this next to the 2010 Horseshoe chard, which I preferred very much over this Alpine. In the end, as just one Rhys drinker, I wish the oak on this wine would get pulled back.
  • 2010 Rhys Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    This was tasted next to the 2010 Alpine chard, and for me, this beats the Alpine by a big distance. Why? For one, the 'Shoe fruit is brighter, the lemon peel adds energy whereas the Alpine has too muck oak and tropical tones for my palate. There is a touch of honey here in the 'Shoe, with a long presence/finish. The oak is much lighter touched, too. All in, this 'Shoe reminds me of the fantastic bottle I tasted this past June, showing terrific again. I’ve simply now come to the point where I enjoy and appreciate the 'Shoe fruit and makeup.
  • 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
    I liked the stony feature in this wine, the green apple, lemon and medium weight. Great energy and acidity.

Chicken spring rolls

  • 2006 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    I like the wine this time better than when I had it back in Dec 2011. Last night, it showed a bright cherry, intense fruit, a hint of red apple and some herbal tonmes. Even with decanting ahead of time (I think 4 hours), it was still tight. My view here is, much like the Alpine Hillside and Swan Terrace (both 2006) we tasted alongside this Alpine, these wines all have a lot of structure and plenty of time left to go.
  • 2006 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Hillside - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Drank alongside the Alpine and Swan Terrace (also 2006s). This Hillside I liked the least of the three wines, as it came off a bit syrupy for me, the riper cherry and black cherry tones were less in balance than the other 2 wines. Stemmy still too and a bit rough overall. Like the other 2006s, this will need time and overall, it doesn’t have the balance of the Alpine or the overall quality and impression level of the lovely Swan Terrace.
  • 2006 Rhys Pinot Noir Swan Terrace Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    This was fantastic, drank alongside the Alpine and Alpine Hillside (both 2006s). This Swan beat those other 2 by a good margin. The stems add a potpourri note, and while there is some density here, maybe a little liqueur-like, it shows a polished, juicy black cherry core and as it sits in the glass, shows a rocky quality. Like the other two 2006s above, there is plenty of life left here and this is already for me a beautiful wine, one that I see advancing and becoming even moreso. Bravo.
  • 2009 Maison Ilan Charmes-Chambertin Aux Charmes Hautes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
    This was poured blind alongside some 2006 Rhys pinots, notably the Swan Terrace. This MI showed jammy to me, with blue and red fruit, some funk and seemed a bit too ripe for my tastes. Some at the table said they got some spritz, although I didn’t pick up on it. FWIW, the Swan Terrace was much better than this MI.

Chicken and beef koobideh with hummus and must o’ khiyar

  • 2007 Rhys Pinot Noir Family Farm Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Mateo County
    Tasted alongside the 2007 Home, as well. Both of these wines show a riper style, a vintage similarity I suppose. The FF here had the bigger fruit of raspberry, strawberry and black cherry, with solid structure and light stem. This to me will need more time to let some of that stucture relax.
  • 2007 Rhys Pinot Noir Home Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay
    Tasted alongside the 2007 Family Farm. The Home is more burly in tone than the FF, and to me the Home shows better depth. My notes say "darker’ and I believe that was reference to the fruit profile, as the fruit here was more roasted cherry and a hard candy note.
  • 2007 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Mixed reactions to this wine, which I had pulled last minute to be used as a blind foil against some Rhys Skyline pinots. We splashed this wine and tried to get some air into it, and it showed some barnyard/brett type of character. Lots of leaner cherry and a bottle I should have aired out more prior to letting it rip.
  • 2010 Rhys Pinot Noir Family Farm Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Mateo County
    Tasted alongside the 2010 Home, and also thrown in as a blind wine, the 2010 Copain Kiser En Bas. This FF has a pronounced stemmy aromatic, far more than the 2010 Home. Lively cherry, tight palate and finish and will need some time. For me, the fruit here and the expression of this 2010 was far better than that of the 2007, which I had tasted in the flight that preceded this one.
  • 2010 Rhys Pinot Noir Home Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay
    Tasted with 2010 Family Farm. In this instance, the Home outshined it. For one thing, the Home is less stemmy aromatically and for me what shows instead is a herb note, than the stem signature of the FF. Juicy here, maybe a touch riper than the FF. Also here is a real depth, with stony raspberry and black cherry, with a terrific, leaner styled finish. One of my best WsOTN.
  • 2010 Copain Pinot Noir “En Bas” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    Pulled this last minute to go as a blind selection, included alongside the 2010 Rhys Family Farm and Home pinots (not poured blind). All I could give this was a splash decant and poured from the decanter. Lean strawberry, red apple skin, light and stony. Nothing to retaste today.
  • 2012 Rhys Pinot Noir Family Farm Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Mateo County
    Poured alongside the 2012 Home. Like the other FF wines of the evening (07 and 09), this too shows a riper quality of fruit. Strawberry and kiwi, seeming a bit candied with some light mineral.
  • 2012 Rhys Pinot Noir Home Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay
    Once again, as with the previous flights, we paired this wine against the same vintage of Family Farm. And, like those other flights, the Home here beats the FF for my palate. The Home is earthier, leaner, brighter, red fruited with strawberry, a touch of blue fruit, too. Spicy, terrific acidity. Very nice.
  • 2012 Rhys Pinot Noir Swan Terrace Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Drank alongside the 2012 Family Farm and Home. I really dig this fruit, as it’s stony, juicy and has cool red tones to it. The acidity here is spot on, too. Much like the 2006 Swan Terrace we had earlier in the evening, this wine shined like that one.

Chicken and beef koobideh with hummus and must o’ khiyar

  • 2007 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Tasted alongside the 2008 Skyline, and for kicks and giggles, the 2007 D’Angerville Champans that I had pulled from the cellar on the fly to join the flight. This 2007 Skyline is dark, intense and tannic with a peppery, stemmy aromatic. And to think this was opened the night before last…shows the structure that is here. Juicy raspberry and strawberry fruit. And an interesting note, one I have not previously cited for pinot, there was a tasting marker here that reminded me of the red berry intensity of a really fine shot of espresso. Not the coffee aspect but the deep, roasted berry signature that infuses a good shot. Really caught my attention.
  • 2008 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Tasted alongside the 2007. My notes in comparing the two say that the 2008 was more approachable, with the word juicy underlined. The strawberry fruit is distinctly more red, also perhaps a bit richer. Also a light chalk note to this wine, the tannin here feeling a little different than the 2007, more open textured.
  • 2009 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Tasted alongside the 2010 and 2011 Skyline. This 2009 is sexy, a bit candied of red fruits with lots of blue fruit woven in, juicy and expressive.
  • 2010 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    This was spicy, with dark cherry, herbal and tangy, zesty. Tart. So little of this made and my only bottle, not sure if I will have the opportunity to taste this again in the future.
  • 2011 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Of the three Skylines in the flight (2009 and 2010), I liked the 2011 best. It does have an herbal component, which also adds some light pepper. Spicy cherry, leaner in tone, with some blue fruit, depth and minerality.

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Good idea writing on the label like that… many a time I’ve almost pulled the wrong Rhys.

Thanks so much for the notes too, sounds like a fabulous evening!

Thanks for the great notes, Frank! Looks like a great evening, and it’s nice to get a wide-view perspective on how these are showing at this time.

Fabulous notes, thanks! Looking back at my own notes on the two Chards, from 2012, I have a lot of the same descriptors for both! Though on that day I had a slight preference for the Alpine, for it’s more steely, mineral finish. I’m sure it has changed in 2.5 years.

Great notes FMIII

Yeah, Rhys needs better labeling: all the wines look very much alike, with too small lettering.

Still wish they would dial back the stems and oak a bit more.

Great notes, some of your opinions are identical to mine, except if it’s Rhys and begins with an S I haven’t opened it yet.

+1 - with the exception of "S"an Mateo - which I drank thru a few cases of the 06!

Great notes from what really sounds like a great night. I want to look back at the notes from our Rhys night a few months ago.
I completely agree with your palate fatigue comments as I had a difficult time towards the end of our tasting.

I hope to have another Rhys night in NY soon.

Frank - I’ve recently purchased a 2012 allocation of Pinots from Rhys. I have yet to try their wines and bought on reputation. My primary take away from your notes is Rhys wines need a significant amount of cellar time to properly integrate. Is this an accurate assessment? I’m assuming the reason for this is they follow a Bergundian model. I’m a bit concerned by the comments regarding a stemy and oaky quality to the wines.

I have had a few Rhys and I have not found them to be oaky at all. The stems are present and INMHO give great aromatics and spice to some of their wines. I have found a few where, for my palate, the stalky flavors were a bit overpowering. The Bearwallow 11 and their Alesia bottling come to mind. I am certainly a Burgundy novice but I found some Dujac bottlings to have a similar profile(from the stalky point of view).

What is stemmy and/or oaky generally depends on the preferences of the specific individual.

Thanks for the notes Frank! Sounds like your preferences are mostly lining up with mine. Horseshoe and Home rule!

Good to hear about the 2006 Swan, I think I still have one of those and I really disliked it a year or two after release.

I find that stems are often mistaken for oak (I used to do that with Dujac) but after they’ve integrated they add a welcome additional complexity to the wine.

Count me as a fan of Rhys’ stem use. It’s interesting to watch these wines integrate over time. Definitely not for impatient buyers.

It was great to see Frank again, meet Jill and drink Rhys with the Orange County gang. It was a glorious, balmy day along the southern California coast.

Somehow in my escape from LA, I misplaced my notes, but here are some general impressions:

  • The Rhys team is working some remarkable sites. The feminine, floral Swan and the intensely focused Skyline continue to be the standard bearers for me, mainly due to their distinctiveness.
  • These wines are still young, their best days are ahead! My dilemma with Rhys has been that I’m so convinced they require time that I’ve been holding off drinking. The '06s seemed to be just starting to open up, the Hillside in particular appeared to be still coming together.
  • As the vines gain age, the trajectory for the lineup is straight up. The '12s show enormous potential.

The two blind Burgs provided an interesting contrast - to me they highlighted the brilliance of these young emerging Rhys.

As many on this board already know, the Murray hospitality is legendary. Thanks to Frank, the OC team and a passel of Rhys for a memorable evening!

I’m fine with a hint of oak or wood notes such as cedar plank, I just don’t like it to be the predominant flavor profile. I know stems can impart positive bouquet and flavor notes, however I tend to shy away from what I describe as “green” (not vegetal) sour/tangy and bitter flavors, particularly in reds.

To your point, it’s about personal preference. I know some people enjoy strong acidic and/or tannic wines, as it imparts a positive sensation on their palate. I’m not one of them. On the other end of the spectrum I don’t like flabby fruit bombs, either. I’m constantly on the search for wines of balance and complexity. Nothing is more disappointing to me than opening $100+ bottle of wine and it being a nondescript or one dimensional experience.

Thanks again Frank on another successful Lollapalooza wine tasting event. As usual very organized and the food was a very good pairing with the wines. Little light on the rice - maybe we all chip in and get Frank a rice cooker!
Of course the lead band was the Rhys wines and sure enough I came away thinking they need more time, maybe a lot more time. The 12’s seemed to be the most approachable with the exception of the 06 Swan which was the Rhys wine of the night for me. I agree with others that the 10 Alpine chard was showing too much oak on this night - both on nose and palate. 10 Shoe Chard was showing much better.

I agree with Frank that we were over enthusiastic with the quantity of wines as palate fatigue set in quickly. Not sure how professional critics can do this day after day - maybe that is why the scores end up all over the map!

Charlie Fu brought a couple of stellar wines - 2010 PYCM Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain that was a delight, so soft and velvety and a NV Krug (DG’ed in 2001) that was teetering on over oxidized but nice. Fun to try the Maison Ilan Charmes but the funk seemed to be bothersome and couldn’t finish my 1 1/2 oz pour. And I love funk/barnyard!

Nice to meet some new faces and heres to hoping that some of the older Rhys wines come around soon.

Rhys has, I believe, dialed back the stems a bit from the apex in 2010ish when they were on the very high end (I used to joke that Rhys was the Dominique Laurent of stems - 200% whole cluster.) It’s still stemmy wine but well within the range for the stem-tolerant.

With Rhys the oak is not predominant, at least to my palate. And remember that my #1 wine is Riesling, so never, ever any oak.

The stems in Rhys are not green. They have never been green in terms of the character that they impart.

I’ll type up more of my thoughts later as I’m on my iPad, but one wine, the 06 alpine hillside was incredibly stemmy and underripe. Very much out of balance. I do enjoy stem in my wine (dujac being my favorite producer) but that alpine hillside was definitely green and shrill. I’m not exactly sure how that wine will develop. I’d be a little worried if I owned bottles as it didn’t seem there would ever be enough fruit to outlast the acid and stem

But most of the skyline had a nice balance of stem/fruit. I could see some being too stemmy for some people though.

Had a 2009 Rhys Alpine Pinot recently (served to a visitor from France) and I thought it fantastic. I know that people say these wines need a few more years, but to me it was starting to turn secondary, with incredible floral aromatics. But then I often prefer the wines on that upward swing from primary to secondary.

Also agree I think on the Horseshoe Chardonnay, which had an orchard fruit more than lemon profile when I tasted it. My guess is that this one drinks a little better young than the Alpine Chardonnay (which I would not discount for the slightly longer term).