TN: Some OddBall Wines..(long/boring)

We tried last night (9/24/14) Some Interesting Wines:

1. Occhipinti SP68 IGT: TerreSiciliane (Nero d’Avola e Frappato; 12.5%) AriannaOcchipinti/Vittoria 2012: Med.light
   color; rather earthy/dusty light cherry/Pinotish mushroomy some bretty/horsecollar interesting nose; soft rather
   earthy/dusty/mushroomy light cherry/berry/Pinotish some unclean/bretty/goat pen slight metallic/tangy flavor w/
   light tannins; med.chort some unclean/bretty rather earthy/dusty/funky slight cherry/Pinotish finish w/ light
   tannins; a bit on the unclean side but a pleasant cherry/Pinot-like character; was expecting more from a hot
   Sicilian winemaker. $30.00 (LM)

2. Toccata Freisa LosAlamosVnyd/SBC (13.5%) 2008: Med.color; very attractive cherry/alpine strawberry/Freisa light
   oak slight earthy/dusty quite perfumed/spicy lovely nose; quite tart/acid bright strawberry/alpine strawberry/
   cherry perfumed slight earthy bright/lovely flavor w/ slight tannic bite; med.long tart/tangy bright/alpine
   strawberry/cherry slight earthy/dusty finish w/ slight tannic bite; a pretty/lightweight wine that speaks
   strongly of Freisa and Nebbiolo; would like a bit more richness but a very pretty wine. $20.00

3. LaZucca Az.Agr. Freisa d’Asti (Dal vigneto storica “Vigna d’l Mond” ; 13%) 2001: Dark color w/ slight bricking;
   rather earthy/dusty/mushroomy/truffly some unclean/barnyard slight cherry/strawberry not particularly complex
   nose; soft tangy/metallic rather earthy/dusty/truffly bit old Nebb some unclean/barnyardy/bretty flavor w/
   light/smooth tannins; med.long tangy/metallic rather unclean/bretty finish w/ light/gentle tannins; a bit too
   unclean for my palate; much like a well-aged Nebb. $9.90 (SFW&S)

4. Pelissero Freisa DOC: Langhe (“nature”; 13%) Giorgio Pel/Treiso 2012: Rather frizzante when poured w/ lots of
   bubbles forming on the glass; lovely fragrant alpine strawberry/cherry bit earthy/dusty/truffly quite fragrant/
   perfumed nose; slight spritzy rather tangy/metallic quite perfumed alpine strawberry/cherry/cherry blossom slight
   dusty/truffly flavor w/ light/bitey tannins; very long bright/electric alpine strawberry/cherry/cherry cola/spicy
   slight earthy/truffly finish w/ bit bitey/astringent tannins; a classic rendition of Freisa and exactly why a
   like this grape so much; almost like a MoscatoRosso/Freisa blend in character. $23.00 (DiV)

5. Verdad Graciano Ibarra-YoungVnyd/SYV (13%) 2011: Med.dark color; quite unclean/bretty/barnyardy/goat pen light
   cherry/Graciano slight wet dog fur/strange/funky nose; fairly tart some bretty/barnyardy some tart/cherry/
   Graciano light oak flavor w/ light round tannins; med.long some bretty/barnyardy/earthy light tangy/cherry/
   Graciano finish w/ light tannins; loads of brett on the nose but not so much on the palate, but I have a hard
   time getting past the nose. $25.00/$16.75

6. RioMadre Graciano DOC: Rioja (14.50%; JorgeOrdanezSlctns) 2012: Quite dark color; strong very perfumed black
   cherry/Graciano slight earthy some vanilla/oak/pencilly nose; soft bright cherry/black cherry/black cherry cola/
   Graciano some pencilly/vanilla/oak/toasty bit earthy flavor w/ light/bitey tannins; quite long perfumed/black
   cherry/black cherry cola/Graciano slight earthy/licorice rather oak/toasty/pencilly/vanilla finish w/ light/
   bitey/hard tannins; a fairly intense Graciano very much in a modern International style at a great price.
   $14.00 (SFW&S)

7. GeorgAlbrechtSchneider Dornfelder Rheinhessen (trocken; 13.0%; Q; A.P.Nr. 4 382 238 19 11) 2009: Dark color;
   rather earthy/loamy strong grapey/plummy/black cherry/black cherry cola/RCCola rather herbal/rosemary/thyme
   quite attractive nose; soft/lush strong plummy/grapey/black cherry cola/RCCola light earthy/loamy/herbal
   flavor w/ light/smooth tannins; fairly long grapey/plummy/black cherry/RCCola/root beer/spicy somewhat earthy/
   loamy/herbal finish w/ soft/gentle tannins; a bit soft/lacking in structure but plenty of strong plummy/loamy
   Dornfelder fruit; great value at $13.00 (WoP)

8. Schnaitmann Lemberger Wurttemberg (Q; Dry; A.P.Nr.6672 3 10; 13%) RainerSchnaitmann/Fellbach 2008: Dark color;
   quite pungent/hot asphalt/tarry/ozone rather earthy/loamy/compost pile nose w/ little fruit; soft slight
   tangy/metallic rather pungent/tarry/asphalt/ozone flavor w/ little fruit and light/tangy/sharp tannins; long
   pungent/tarry/hot asphalt/ozone somewhat earthy/loamy finish w/ light/sharp tannins; a real paucity of fruit
   and a rather strange wine. $20.00

9. Durin Rossese DOC: Riviera Ligure di Ponente (L6R06; 12.5%; www.Durin.It) Basso Antonio/Ortovero/Savona
   2005: Light color w/ light bricking; slight unclean/bretty rather fragrant/cherry/spicy almost DryCreekVlly
   Zin-like bit dusty/earthy quite perfumed nose; rather tart some dusty/earthy/OV rather cherry/raspberry/
   Zin-like/quite spicy flavor w/ light/gentle tannins med.long tart/tangy rather bright/cherry/raspberry/spicy/
   Zin-like bit earthy/dusty finish w/ light/smooth tannins; seems much like an aged DryCreekVlly Zin but still
   has plenty of bright/cherry fruit; quite a pretty wine. $26.00 (WE/SM)

10. Clos Cibonne CuveeSpeciale Tibouren AP: Cotes de Provence “Cru Classe” (13%; #4581;
    www.deMaisonSelections.com; 90% Tibouren/10% Syrah) AndreRoux/LePradet 2012: Med.light color w/ slight
    bricking; very strong cherry/black cherry/black cherry cola/strawberry almost Grenache-like slight herbal/
    garrigue/earthy quite attractive nose; soft bit watery/weak/dilute some cherry/strawberry/Grenache-like bit
    tangy/grapefruity light earthy/dusty flavor w/ light/gentle tannins; long spicy/strawberry/cherry/Grenache-like
    bit weak/watery some earthy/dusty/herbal finish w/ light/weak tannins; some like a CdR/Grenache; quite a pretty
    Grenache-like nose but doesn’t deliver as much on the palate. $34.00 (BWM)

11. Cacchetto DOC: Raboso del Piave (13%; Un Po’Pazzo Slctns/Sacrameto) Tezze di Piave/Vazzola/Veneto 2008: Very
    dark/near black color; strong plummy/black cherry/boysenberry/LaCrima-like slight earthy/dusty lovely perfumed
    nose; very tart/tangy strong black cherry cola/plummy/RCCola/boysenberry some dusty/earthy flavor w/ strong/hard/
    rugged tannins; very long quite tart/acid/tangy strong black cherry cola/plummy/boysenberry bit earthy/dusty
    finish w/ strong/hard/rugged tannins; needs much age; much like a LaCrima or Refosco but w/ tannin & acid;
    quite an impressive wine. $24.00 (CB)

12. Bonotto delle Tezze DOCG: Malanotte del Piave/Veneto (100% Raboso del Piave; 14%; Tavolo Vigneto) Vazzola
    2010: Very dark color; rather toasty/charred/smokey/Fr.oak rather spicy/black cherry cola/DrPepper light earthy
    complex nose; fairly tart strong toasted/charred/oak some spicy/black cherry cola/RCCola bit earthy/dusty
    complex flavor w/ lighter but hard/roughh tannins very long black cherry/cola/DrPepper strong toasty/charred/
    Fr.oak finish w/ lighter but hard tannins; very much in the International style; overpriced at $68.00 (Gom)

The usual nonsense from TheBloodyPulpit:

1. Freisa: This is one of my favorite grapes from the Piemonte. I particularly like it for its aromatics…not a
   lot unlike Brachetto or Marzemmino. It is sometimes made as frizzante (as the Pelissero) or off-dry; but most
   are now made in a dry form. They oftentimes have a bit of a tannic bite. In act, Freisa is one of the parents
   of Nebbiolo. This Lucas&Lewellen Freisa is the only rendition of the grape I know of in Calif. And quite a
   pretty wine it is.

2. Rossese: This is a variety that apparently made its way into Liguria from the StTropex gulf in southern France,
   where it is known as Tibouren. It is suspected the variety was first brought to France by the Greeks. This is the
   first Tibouren I’ve tried. I’ve only had one other Rossese from Liguria, whic mightly impressed me last March.
   It’s a variety that you don’t see much of, alas. There is a Bianco version of the grape that appears to be even
   rarer than the Rosso version. Based on these three data points, I am prepared to announce that Rossese is a
   variety that should be being planted all up & down the Coast of Calif.

3. Raboso del Piave: This is a variety that originated in the Veneto, maybe near the Piave River. Cacchetto is,
   by far, the largest producer. He is recognized for being the man responsible for its revival. It had fallen
   out of favor because it produces wines of high acid & high tannins (so why didn’t that happen to Nebbiolo
   in the Piemonte??). It crossed w/ MarzeminaBianca to produce RabosoVeronese, a varietal I’ve never seen.
   I liked both of these wines for my first taste of Raboso. Particularly the Cacchetto for its greater
   authenticity. The Bonotto was a classic Italian technique…take a great indigenous grape, hit it w/ a ton
   of new Fr.oak, obliterate any varietal character, and jack the price up by another $50.
   Based on these two data points, I am convinced they should be planting Raboso all up & down the coast
   of Calif…it’s a no-brainer.

4. Graciano: Thiis variety is mostly found in Rioja. It is a sibling to Monastrell/Mourvedre. It had fallen into
   disfavor in Rioja but is enjoying a quiet comeback. It a variety I think has potential in Calif.
   I had the Verdad when I first got it in over a year ago and liked it quite a lot for its bright/clean cherry
   character. Since the, ths btl has developed a pretty strong brett character. So sad. Unusual for a Lindquist
   wine.

5. Lemberger: Also known as Blaufrankisch and a parent of GamayNoir. This wine was a rather odd-ball rendition of
   Lemberger. You used to see a fair amount of Lemberger coming out of WashState, but the numbers seem to be
   dwindling to my view.
   Tom

Thanks.

I always enjoy reading your notes.

I recall that Bonny Doon has produced a frizzante Freisa, not sure whether they still do. I’ll have to check out the Toccata version sometime.

According to DarrellCorti, the Ficklin’s planted some Raboso in the '30-'40’s in their CentralVlly vnyd. Sold only at the wnry. Don’t know if it still exists or not.
Tom

I think it is a neat, interesting comparison…with what is going on in craft beers. And wish it had been explored in a bit more detail (the comparison).

One thing, I think I’d say, however, is that some folks have been making wine out of odd grapes for awhile. Anybody else remember Carmenet Napa Valley Colombard? We’ve been doing Pinot Meunier for awhile. Mike Officer does odd things (wine-wise…and personally as well, I think). And Limerick Lane with Furmint. Those just off the top of my head. So not sure what is happening with wine is really new…

Adam Lee
Siduri Wines

Awww, Adam…PinotMeunier is so…yesterday!!! I’d say your Nebb is more odd-ball.
Before Carmenet, Chalone did a FrenchColombard from the CyrilSaviez vnyd up on the SilveradoTrail near Calistoga.
Very old-vine stuff. And it was danged good. I’m sure it’s been budded over to Tazalenghe or Refosco or Vespolina…maybe even to…gasp…Cabernet!!!
I don’t think the boys at LimerickLane have decided what to do w/ their Furmint. I think they’re maybe doing something w/ KevinWardell at BergamotAlley with
those grapes.
I’ve yet to try a btl of Mike’s GrandNoir.
Tom

I don’t ever remember a Chalone FC, I thought they only did estate wines at that time? I do remember the Carmenet FC from the Cyril Saviez vineyard and Carment was part of the Chalone wine group (or someting like that). I heard at ZAP 10+ years ago that the old Colombard vines were ripped out as they were heavily virused. Damn If I can’t remember the producer that told me that but they were making Zin from old vine on the ranch.

Woodenhead has been making a French Colombard from RRV fruit for the past 4-5 years. Believe they’ve made a sparkling wine from it as well.

Sean,
As I recall, the wine was under the GavilanCllrs label. The 2’nd label Chalone used (occasionally) for wines from purchased grapes.
Eventually, Carmenet was part of the Chalone group.
Tom

Tom you are a fountain of knowledge. I was curious so I was doing some research after I posted and found this thread from 2010 Calling Mike Dildine! Saviez Vineyards Zin - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers I had completely forgotten about the Gavilan lable.

Ken, I really enjoy the Woodenhead FC. Jepson Winery (RIP) made a nice FC from Mendo grapes at one time and Ravenswood did FC from Sonoma as a tasting room wine at one time. I would guess that was from one of their OVZ vineyards that they took as part of the deal to get the Zin.

Nawh, Sean. I’m a LosAlamos guy…I just make stuff up. Sometimes I actually get it right!!
Tom

I had a chance to try a number of Rosseses (Rossesi, I guess) in Liguria a month ago and, like every other wine, its success appears to be based on where you grow it and what you do with it. While some were excellent and paired beautifully with local rabbit specialties, others were limp and watery and, on the other extreme, some were oaky and overdone. I think it would do well in California, but in very warm areas it would probably produce generic plonk.

As a Chalone shareholder, I bought a bunch of the Carmenet Colombard. It was a really nice every day white for a great price, but never found a market. I’m another that didn’t recall Chalone did a version.

Thanks, Tom, as always, for really interesting notes.