Tasting at Escarpment Vineyards followed by a Burgundy lunch with winemakers

Six of us decided to spend the day in Martinborough, starting with a visit to Escarpment Vineyards, where we were met by the winemakers Larry McKenna and Huw Kinch. We began with a discussion on the Escarpment vineyards, most of which are up on Te Muna Road where the winery is situated, the remainder being leased vines located around the northern corner of the village, on New York Street and Huangarua Road.

Larry then took us out to look at the Kupe Pinot Noir vines, unusually densely planted for a New Zealand vineyard at around 8000/ha, although some local enthusiasts are now emulating the Burgundian standard of 10,000/ha. The Kupe vines are trained low to the ground to maximize sun exposure, in a north-south orientation. They are planted on a loamy topsoil, under which it is Martinborough Terrace gravel all the way down, mandating skillful use of trickle irrigation; enough to prevent hydric stress, yet not enough to discourage root growth.

Huw took us down to the barrel room; a large high-walled concrete structure built into the side of a bank such that is effectively invisible except from the escarpment side of the property. There are plans to build a winery above it to allow gravity feeding to the barrels and cuves below. As a result of the subterranean location and the cool Wairarapa winters, malolactic fermentation is usually delayed until the following spring. This means that we were tasting the 2014 wines before malo, so my notes on the wines from this vintage are appropriately brief. All wines were tasted from barrel or tank.

Escarpment Vineyards Insight Series Pinot Noir wines

Escarpment Pahi Pinot Noir 2013. From the McCreanor vineyard, which is comprised of a mixture of own-rooted and grafted 10/5 clone vines, planted in 1986. Lifted red and dark fruit aromas, savoury earthy flavours and silky tannins transporting the dark fruit flavours to a graceful although not extended finish. This has the usual Pahi elegance enhanced by the 2013 fruit character.

Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir 2013. From the Cleland vineyard planted in UC Davis clones 5, 6 and 13. Spicey aromas, with Kiwa-signature savoury flavours. Power and richness that contrasts with the elegance of the Pahi; a bigger wine with more apparent matière. Lovely acidity that is a more obvious component of the framework at this stage than oak or tannin, although the elements are all there for long-term development.

Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir 2013. From the Barton vineyard planted with a range of clones in 1990. This is usually the most fruit-driven and New World in style of the four Insight Pinots, and the 2013 is no exception. Dark berry aromas, a burst of fruit flavours on entry seasoned with peppery spices, the primary (although not inaccessible) quality of this wine contrasts with openness of the first two.

Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir 2013. A 1.8 ha vineyard on Escarpment’s Te Muna Road property planted in Abel clone vines. This is the flagship of the Insight series single vineyard offerings. The vines here are around ten years younger that the other Insight vineyards and, in the winery, Kupe receives more whole bunch (60% in 2013) and more new oak (55% versus 40%), compared with the other Insight wines. As a result, Kupe has previously struggled to match the others for balance, concentration and complexity, but recent vintages seem to be repaying the faith that Larry has in this site. From barrel, the 2013 Kupe has a complex, subtle nose, with sous bois and floral notes. On the palate it is quite primary, with a tightly coiled structure. The oak is there, but it is not overbearing. Although the tannins are dense, they are not coarse. This is a wine with great potential.

A few notes on the 2014 Insight Series Pinot Noir wines

These were hard to read at their current stage of development, having not yet undergone malo. Nevertheless it was clear that 2014 is a great year for Escarpment Pinot Noir. The concentration of the fruit is very impressive, perhaps even denser that 2013. Pahi is a little shy at this stage. The Kiwa, a perennial favourite of Howard and myself, is delicious right now. Te Rehua and Kupe are characteristically primary and hard to assess, although everything seems to be there. The Kupe has huge fruit, which Huw suggested might be riper than is usual. It will be interesting to track the development of the elegant tannins and complex layered phenolics over time.

Other wines tasted

We were shown a barrel sample of a 2014 Pinot Noir made from a block of MV6, an Australian clone from Clos Vougeot, which has an interesting blood orange flavour at this stage of development and which is probably destined for the generic Escarpment Pinot Noir. We tried the 2014 Kupe Chardonnay (rich honey and mealy notes, lively acidity), the 2013 Kupe Chardonnay (rich leesy citrus notes on the nose and palate). We also tasted the 2014 Pinot Gris but, for immediate appeal I was most impressed by the 2014 Escarpment Pinot Blanc. Beeswax and honey aromas, richly textured palate and lively aromatics. I’ll take this over New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris any day.

Many thanks to Larry and Huw for their time and generosity. It was a truly enjoyable and rewarding visit. After that, Larry, Huw, Paul Mason of Martinborough Vineyards, and the six of us went for lunch at Mark St. Clair’s vineyard in Martinborough. Howard will be posting his notes on this.

Privilege to try the 2013 and 2014 single vineyards from Escarpment - great notes Andrew

WINES WITH LARRY, HUW AND PAUL IN MARTINBOROUGH - (9/1/2014)

We went to Mark’s place in Martinborough (the vineyard for William Grace) where we had catered in an excellent lunch to accompany the wines we had each brought. The lunch was to thank Larry McKenna and Huw Kinch of Escarpment Vineyards and Paul Mason of Martinborough Vineyards for arranging Burgundy visits for those of us on our recent trip.

Providore Foods catered in an entree of prawn, kumara and coconut cream fritters with a crisp green winter micro salad, a main of Wairarapa venison pies with honeyed roast vegetables and mini pumpkin bread loaves with Comte, Brie and blue cheeses with quince paste and fiscelles to finish.

The wines were largely served blind (but with some coordination between attendees for a coherent tasting) in seven pairs after the Champagne …

• NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru VP - France, Champagne
  Disgorged July 2012. Colour light lemon with a good persistent bead. A lovely nose of lemon, spice and white flowers in an oxidative style. On the palate, the first impression is of the sweetness. In an oxidative style with flavours of blanched nuts and almond brioche, with some minerals and toasty oak on the finish. Good acidity and lovely freshness and zing. Some tasters however thought this Champagne a little dilute and perhaps a bit too leesy. Good but not great.
  
  
  
• 1996 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
  Popped and poured. Deep gold colour. An attractive bouquet of blanched almonds, cooking spices, lemon and some white florals. On the palate, this was clearly a mature white Burgundy from the mid-1990s. It seemed more evolved than the Carillon with which it was tasted. Round with Meursault-like richness on the palate. The wine was not premoxed but clearly was showing more oxidation than the Carillon, with the profile moving in a nutty, almost lactic direction. Rauno said that he kicked himself for not decanting the Leflaive because, toward the end of our pours, the wine really began to blossom in the glass. My initial impression was that I preferred the Carillon but that impression changed towards the end of my samples. The flavour profile became more multi-dimensional opening up into peaches and cream, honey roasted peanuts, with an almost crème brulee dimension (but of course not with that degree of sweetness). Mineral flavours also began to emerge. This wine is ready to drink now but should be given some air before tasting.
• 1996 Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
  Again popped and poured. Deep gold. An awkward, cheesy, lactic bouquet showing some nutty elements with air time. The bouquet well behind the Leflaive. The Carillon was very different on palate, showing much more acidity, freshness and life than the bouquet suggested. The wine was advanced but still relatively bright and crisp. Most of us had this as a Puligny because of its Puligny-like focus, with a good squeeze of lemon, malic flavours, and some minerals and wet granite. An elegant, nuanced wine, not as rich or concentrated as the Leflaive. Nonetheless the wine had good fruit weight and power. Initially I preferred this to the Leflaive, but with my last sips of each concluded that the Leflaive was, in fact, the better wine.
  
  
  
• 2012 Frederic Esmonin Ruchottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
  Slow-oed for three hours. Colour very primary deep purple/red. A gorgeous Gevrey nose of dark fruit, earth and some underbrush, with a touch of liquorice. All of the tasters were suggesting that this was a New World wine. On palate this was very bright, polished and satiny. I wanted to taste this wine to get an early sighter of its quality. However, it is presently drinking close to a barrel sample. The wine shows it has all of the components for a great future. It has a serious Grand Cru level of dry extract, very ripe, suave tannins and an excellent acid structure. At the moment of course it is sitting on its fruit and it really needs another ten years cellar time. Andrew observed that it was perhaps stereotypical good 2012 red Burgundy showing a pleasing combination of 2009 fruit with 2010 structure. As Mike says there is the potential here that this wine may be the best yet produced by Frederic Esmonin.
• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
  A lighter ruby colour. On the nose, aromas of red berry fruit, particularly red cherries, spice and a little earth. The bouquet showed a little evolution, consistent with a 2007 red Burgundy. After a little while, Larry pointed out a slight cork taint to the wine which, in hindsight, you realised had dulled down the bouquet a little. On palate most tasters had this as a New World wine. It exhibited lighter fruit weight than the wines around it but good bright acidity. The fruit weight seemed to be at 1er Cru level and it was ultimately no surprise that the wine was in fact a 2007 Burgundy. The tannins seemed to be good quality ones but showed a little hardness on the back. I wrote down that the wine was ‘a little compressed’ on palate with the fruit somewhat ‘dulled down’, consistent with the presence of TCA. I have previously had superb bottles of this wine but this was not such an example due to the TCA. Sadly, I have heard of several flawed bottles of this wine. Drink in the medium term.
  
  
  
• 1999 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
  A deep garnet colour. The wine showed some attractive development with aromas of forest floor and cooked mushrooms, with a hint of VA lift. On the palate this was an inky wine with a very dry finish. The flavours were umami, soil, black spices, cola and sois bous, showing a detailed and complex flavour profile. Tasted blind there was a debate about the wine’s vintage with suggestions that it was from a very ripe year and needed more time. Some thought it was a 2003 Burgundy but some tasters were picking 2009. On the reveal, the wine was unbelievably primary for a 1999, with many years to go. A large scaled, powerful wine, still drinking quite well now and a perfect accompaniment to our Wairarapa venison pies.
• 1999 Domaine Leroy Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
  Colour deep ruby. Real florality on bouquet over notes of warm earth and various red berry fruit aromas. On palate a dense, concentrated and powerful wine showing a complex and detailed flavour spectrum of red fruits, soil and some savoury flavours. It also showed some evolution and seemed to be from the late 1990s. The wine showed a lot of volume and excellent structure, with a very good acid balance and well integrated, serious tannins. I could not see any link with the Comtes Lafon drunk side-by-side with it. Drinking very well now, this will cellar 10+ years easily. A class act.
  
  
  
• 2001 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
  A good clean, garnet colour. An absolutely gorgeous, pure nose of red fruits, minerals and chalk (that with hindsight should have taken me to Fourrier, but did not). On the palate, however the Gevrey character was very obvious. In the mouth the wine was very clean and elegant, an excellent wine but not with quite the fruit weight or finish to be Grand Cru level. Tasters were picking this wine as a Rousseau 1er. Larry prematurely called this his WoTD (before the Rousseau was poured). Nonetheless, an excellent wine with years ahead of it. I did not guess this as Fourrier but, with hindsight, it had everything you look for in that label: purity, gorgeous red berry fruit, minerality and chalkiness. Very impressive.
• 2007 Domaine Dujac Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
  A bouquet of largely blackberries with a feral or underbrush component (without being unhygienic). The bouquet also showed quite a sulphur influence. The flavour profile was consistent with again perhaps a little too much sulphur. The flavours seemed to be classic Morey St Denis with darker berry fruit, black ink, iodine and some sous bois. Villages level fruit weight. This was a good Villages level wine that suffered next to the superb Fourrier.
  
  
  
• 2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
  Popped and poured. Deep ruby colour. An aromatically explosive, lovely bouquet of musk, tobacco, forest floor and largely red fruits. The bouquet showed a little age. On palate, everyone had this as a top quality Côte de Nuits Burgundy, with Gevrey Chambertin the favourite village. This wine was clearly WoTD, being complex, multi-layered and showing serious fruit weight, power and length. The wine was actually quite primary, drinking much younger than 2001, sitting on its fruit at the moment. I’d give this Clos de Bèze at least five more years. Thanks Paul.
• 2002 Joseph Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
  A lovely nose of red berry fruits, warm earth, black spices and some crushed rocks and chalk. On the palate, good ripe, succulent fruit with bright acidity, good structure and length. It was not surprising that the wine was a 2002, reflecting the rich, ripe vintage. The flavour profile was complex largely in the red berry fruit spectrum with some chalk and minerals, spice and a little Gevrey funk. The tannins were spherical and well integrated. Drinking very well now. A very good wine but the Rousseau was tough competition in this pair.
  
  
  
• 2001 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
  The colour showed a little evolution, light ruby. On bouquet, largely red fruits with aromas of bloodied barbeque game meats, forest floor and some minerals. Again, a very Gevrey nose. On palate, quite rich with apparent sweetness (not as a fault). In the mouth, clearly Grand Cru fruit weight but with some rusticity and the apparent sweetness of the wine suggested a slightly New World style. Most of the tasters guessed it in the 2008 to 2010 vintage range. The oak was in proportion. A fruit driven and ripe style with a touch of charred oak and a hint of smoked game meats on the finish. The wine was drinking well now but again there seemed to me to be years ahead of it.
• 2006 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
  On the nose, a hint of Brett, but not at an unacceptable level, more savoury, underbrush than unhygienic with notes of ripe red berries and spices underneath. Succulent and juicy on the palate we picked this as 2008 to 2009 with a Chambolle-type character. The wine had serious fruit weight and power, clearly of Grand Cru level and a good structure. The flavours were dark berry fruits, iodine and umami flavours with quite a prominent acid profile. This wine really needs 5+ more years to settle down.
  
  
  
• 1999 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
  The deep gold colour suggesting trouble. Confirmed on bouquet with notes of cheese, talc and waxy candles suggesting oxidisation with some aromas of salt, minerals and some white flowers obscured below them. On palate however clearly oxidised and dead. Sherry first and Puligny second. Woody, varnish flavours made a glass of this wine hard to finish. (flawed)
• 2013 William Grace Pinot Noir - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough
  Bright ruby colour. An attractive nose with lifted aromas over dark cherries and some savoury notes. On the palate good ripe fruit with apparent sweetness on entry. The flavours were largely in the red fruit spectrum showing good fruit weight and power, obviously from relatively young, vigorous vines. Nice, vibrant acidity. Seamless oak reflecting the use of a one year old oak barrel.

Mark is fortunate to have some great terroir for William Grace. Just over the back fence is Escarpment’s Kiwa vineyard with its 25 year old vines producing one of NZ’s finest expressions of pinot noir.

An excellent, extended lunch. Thanks very much to Mark for providing the venue.
Posted from CellarTracker

Hi Andrew, Howard,

Thanks for the notes, sounds like a great day in Martinborough. Lunch sounded very tasty. Weather was ok? Which of the Escarpment wines do you guys prefer the most, the Kiwa?

Happy to see the 2007 Fourriers showing well. Have some of them in the cellar. Nice selection for a Sunday lunch!

Cheers Brodie

Hi Brodie,

The weather was great, an early Spring day in Martinborough. Daffodils starting to emerge. Very nice.

Re Escarpment favourites, Andrew and I had that conversation at the Vineyard. We are both big fans of Kiwa in most vintages, in my view one of the most Burgundian NZ pinots. The Kupe, we thought, in quite a different style, is however rapidly catching it each successive vintage in quality. But as the four SV’s have their own individual terroirs and characteristics, others will have their own particular preferences …

Cheers, Howard

Hi Brodie,

I always gravitate towards the Kiwa, but Kupe is growing on me.

As Howard says, the Fourrier 2007 CAM may have had some cork influence that left it a little flat compared to other bottles we have tried in the last 12 months. The 2001 Cherbaudes was very good.

Mark was a good sport to put up his William Grace Pinot Noir in only its second or third vintage at the end of this line-up of PC and GC Burgs. I thought it showed pretty well.

I liked the Kiwa more than the Pahi and Te Rehua. The Kupe is at a different level in regards to power, more GC than 1er. 2013 and 2014 are very strong vintages in Martinborough, and these vineyards have some age, so I expect we are seeing the among the best from Escarpment and NZ. Cheers Mike

Great posts people!

I tried the William Grace recently as well and for the price it is going to be a steal. Should prove even more interesting once the vines get some age.

I’ve also made a note that I need to consider either moving to Wellington!

Brian, I know the feeling very well, trouble is our house is in Akl. I reckon airfare to Wgtn is easy and quick so no big deal…

Where are you based in NZ?

Brodie

Brian, don’t tell Mark his wine is a steal, at least until I’ve got his new vintage. Seriously, if you are ever going to be in Wellington, send me a PM. We can set up something.

Cheers, Howard

Nice wines chaps.

Will do.

I may be somewhere closer this time next year.

My friend who got the wine from Mark told him straight up that he was pricing it to low, but I think he has the right idea, sell it at a price where people are happy to pay the price of entry and you are still (hopefully) covering costs. In ten years we may all be fighting to get an allocation.

Brian, having seen the size of the vineyard, we may indeed struggle for “allocations” in future years! Thankfully, Mark declined most of our helpful marketing tips so far, including:

• Starting a thread on getting the “mailer” offering wines
• Discussing the intricacies of what the blue squiggle versus green triangle means at the top of the offer, comparing how long we’ve been on the list or the waiting list for the waiting list for the list, and draw conclusions about what squiggle or mark you get based on your past loyalty
• Bemoaning how I’ve only managed to score a couple of bottles
• Link a (fake) winebid auction or similar at some outrageous asking price
  

I’m in Christchurch!

I’d happily add a bid to the auction!

Great day in Martinborough. Thanks Andrew for the notes.

It’s a privilege to taste wines in barrels (the 2013s are not bottled yet) and at different stages of evolution (the 2014s has either not started their malls or were just getting underway). We all focused on the PN of course but I concur with Andrew that the Pinot Blanc was just lovely. One of the best QPR wines in New Zealand as far I’m concerned.

We often have the impression that new world wines are driven by technology, the lab and scientific measurements; at Escarpment knowledge of the place over a long period of time, focus on the different sites and accepting and driving difference by letting the wines do their thing are very much the priority.

Kiwa stands out I agree, but I also see Mike’s point about the pedigree of Kupe: the tannins are finer and the texture silkier. It will fine its personality with more vine age I suspect.

It was great to be joined by Hugh, Larry and Paul for lunch. It’s great to spend all this time drinking and discussing each of these wines in detail.

Some photos from the day.

Great notes, pictures and fun day out…all looking a bit older I noticed !!
You boys never do anything by half…who got to drive back over the hill ?

My views on the wines:

Escarpment: both the 13s and 14s are looking extremely good. Escarpment is privileged to have the Kiwa vineyard which clearly produces a flavor profile that is distinct from the “norm” in NZ with greater elegance and red-fruit, and the Kupe is great - tannins, depth and complexity.

The lunch whites: just shows that good white burgundy does age, and while both bottles of the PM 1ers had cork worries (Pucelles soaked, Perrieres black mould a third of the way through) the wines breathed up excellent. I’m still kicking myself for pop-pouring, concerned that opening too soon might expose them if weak. Should have been more confident, because performance anxiety leads to premature oxidation…

The lunch reds: The Cherbaudes was just really really good, well above my expectations. The CdB rich and primary still. And 1999s will have a long life on that fruit, to me still not quite at peak even for those more “humble” appellations.

Wayne, no driving back over the hill that afternoon. Some of us stayed over night in Martinborough, the rest took a train back.